How we tested espresso tampers
Preparation
Before we began testing to the find the best espresso tamper, we stocked up on several pounds of Ugandan dark roast from Atlas Coffee Company, measuring our grounds using a Kruve Sifter to make sure we were within the realm of espresso (250-500 micrometers, or somewhere between white flour and table salt in size). Throughout testing, we used Gaggia's Classic Pro espresso machine, which is our pick for the best espresso machine.
Pulling shots
For each tamper, we pulled four shots: two with a leveler, or a distribution tool to even out the grounds, and two without. This was the most telling testing phase. Whether you're using a spouted or a bottomless (or "naked") portafilter, you want a slow, constant drizzle with enough foam, or crema, to give it a golden hue. This signifies an even extraction.
If the flow is too slow, it's an indication that the grounds are compacted. Conversely, if espresso is cascading and/or spurting out of the bottom of your portafilter, your grounds are probably not tamped enough, or too coarse to start.
Tasting
Tasting is always the best way to decide on the quality of your shot; it's also highly subjective. We noted where shots seemed under- or over-extracted, and when we pulled a shot that wasn't up to par, we checked to make sure that the issue was related to the tamper we were using, and not the result of improperly-sized grounds or a portafilter in need of cleaning.
Analyzing the puck
Apart from tasting and watching a shot pour, looking at the puck afterward is the next best way to dissect the quality of an espresso shot. It's a bit like making a tea-leaf prophecy in reverse. If it's rock-hard, there's a good chance that the grounds were too fine. If it's soft, your grounds might be too coarse or you might have tamped too finely. If it's cracked, or partially dry, the tamp was almost certainly uneven.
During testing, we oftentimes looked at the puck to essentially confirm what we already knew from previous steps. Between watching the shot pour, tasting the shot, and analyzing the puck, we were able to form a clear picture of what happened, and specifically what went wrong and what went right.
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